Styroplast Foam CoatingProtect and beautify with our one-of-a-kind brush-on encapsulant!Whether you are producing signage or protecting delicate forms for themed scenery, Styroplast will outperform all other coatings. Brush-on encapsulant with fast set time that is designed to provide an impact and fire resistant shell for numerous substrates including EPS/Styrofoam, insulative foams, and wood. It is especially formulated to be the best brush-on foam encapsulent. Spray application is not recommended. Very little weight is added, reducing the need for structural support. Water resistant and chemically inert once cured, it is VOC-free. Coverage: This coating is very strong, even when applied very thin: For a comparison of Foam Coats, click here To see foam projects made using this product, click here California Proposition 65 Warning: This product contains isocyanate, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive harm. Ventilation, gloves and protective clothing required during application. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov or HWFF's information page: California Proposition 65. Features:
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Instructions:
USEFUL TIPS: Warming Part B Poly component to 70-75 degrees before use will make mixing much easier. An air conditioned room will deliver an ideal low humidity and slow drying environment. Move coated object to a warm area to promote faster drying. Use our Medium Mesh for extra strength, especially in seams and corners. Apply multiple coats when needed. Best to re-apply 2-12 hours after each coat is applied. Easily sanded between coats. EQUIPMENT: Ordinary paintbrush, notched trowel, or squeegee. Clean up (before mixture dries) with acetone or MEK. REACTIVITY: Potlife (brush): 12-15 minutes @ 76°F (Up to 20 minutes in cool dry environment); Potlife (trowel): 9-12 minutes @ 76°F (Up to 20 minutes in cool dry environment.) MIXING: 1 unit ISO/Part A: 3 units POLY/Part B by volume, or 1 unit ISO: 3.55 units POLY by weight. If needed, power mix Poly component before beginning to apply. This takes a minimum of 5 minutes per 1 gallon pail with proper mixing equipment. Mix with a slow speed drill and paddle mixer. Hand mixing is fine for small quantities. Must mix very exact proportions. Highly recommend using our reusable accessory measuring Syringe or an accurate scale for small quantities. CURE TIME: Applied coating will set in about 2 to 5 hours at 70°F, depending on film thickness, liquid material temperature and the substrate temperature. Generally, complete cure takes from four to five days at room temperature. Product can be placed into service after one complete day of cure at 70°F minimum. After four days cure the hardness is around 65 shore D. Higher hardness may be attained by post heating the part to 90 – 110 F after 6 hours cure time. If you paint after 12 hours you will need to lightly sand the surface, or better to apply an epoxy primer for paint to stick. WARNING: Avoid contact with skin. Wear dust, skin and eye protection. Use approved respirator when mixing and sanding. In case of eye contact, flush immediately with water, consult a physician. Wash hands with soap and water after use and before eating. Keep out of reach of children.
Tech Specs:FIRE RESISTANCE: Styroplast is self-certified as UL-94 V0 at 60 mils thickness. Flash Point: ASTM D-56 (TCC): Greater than 200°F
Additional Info:
WARRANTY: HWFF Inc./dba Hot Wire Foam Factory warrants this product to be of merchantable quality when used or applied in accordance with the instructions herein. The product is not warranted as suitable for any purpose or use other than the general purpose for which it is intended. Liability under this warranty is limited to the replacement of its product (as purchased) found to be defective, or at the shipping companies’ option, to refund the purchase price. In the event of a claim under this warranty, notice must be given to The Hot Wire Foam Factory in writing. This limited warranty is issued and accepted in lieu of all other express warranties and expressly excludes liability for consequential damages. MSDS available.
California Proposition 65 Warning: This product contains isocyanate, a chemical known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects, and reproductive harm. Ventilation, gloves and protective clothing required during application. For more information, go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov or HWFF's information page: California Proposition 65.
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What do I need to waterproof and hard coat styrofoam making a styrofoam pontoon for kayak?
Hi Tony,
Styroplast will be the best.
It's a very strong waterproof encapsulating coating that is very lightweight in proportion to its impact resistance. You might consider adding Mesh where there are seams and at any stress points.
Would love to see how this turns out,.
Will Styroplast also stick to wood?
It will stick to wood, but if the wood is sealed or painted it won't stick as well as if it is still somewhat porous.
If work time is 20 minutes, what quantity of mixed SP does that represent? I don't want to mix an entire gallon can of the coating and then have half of it harden while I am trying to spread the first part. I am working in a fairly warm building too, so I have to factor that in. What quantity do you recommend i mix each batch?
I'd say watch the video on the Styroplast page to get a good feel on how much you can work with per mix. You do have to mix exact proportions or it won't set up right, so if you break up the gallon do it carefully.
It will set up faster if the weather is warm and humid. It's best to get the Part B (white) warmed up to at least 75 degrees so it is more liquidy when you mix it. Then apply it in a cool place, preferably cooled with an air conditioner which will dehumidify the air (NOT a swamp cooler).
I'm using my first order of styroplast to try to learn its properties. So far, 1st experiment, I'm fairly happy with its rigidity and shine! I'm not as happy with its leveling agent. Instead of getting a flat surface, I'm getting like a still photo of a calm ocean. 2nd batch was applied to my model and it seemed to go from thin paint like to silly putty in about 6 minutes! Since I want my product to be black anyway, I wanted to know if I can add my paint directly to the mix of A and B, and then will it extend that 6 minute window?
What I do is leave Part B, the white part, in a warm place overnight so it becomes less viscous. I've never gone over 75 F. If you are in a humid place, use a dehumidifier or at least an air conditioner and try to bring the humidity down below 50%. Apply it at temperatures below 70F. Make sure you are mixing exact proportions. This will extend the drying time. Too much catalyst and it will set up too fast, not enough catalyst and it will stay tacky forever. If you are getting waves, try applying thin coats, one every hour or two. You can sand between coats once it has hardened. A customer told me that he used a 1:10 mix of denatured alcohol with Part A. He said that it also removed moisture so he didn't get any effervescing. The Part A sucks in moisture from the atmosphere and releases it in the form of little bubbles during curing. An RC airplane builder said he used mineral spirits in a 1:18 (1 mineral spirit to 18 A+B) mix and was able to use it with an airless sprayer. Acetone has been tried as a thinner, but did not work. Use acetone to clean your brushes, but be careful not to get the acetone up where the bristles are glued together. You cannot mix any pigments or paints into Styroplast. You will need to paint the surface.I ran out of Styroplast in the middle of a project. The site says paint or another coat would have to be applied within 2 1/2 hours or wouldn't stick. Am I going to be able to finish Styroplasting?
We have applied a second coat after 12 hours and had good results. After faring in the overlap you can't tell where the seam is. I imagine if there was a hard impact to the area it would split open. Rough up the first coat where the overlap will be.Can this be sprayed? (Also see the below FAQ about possible health hazards when spraying Styroplast)
Here's an answer from one of our customers who was able to spray Styroplast: We don't thin it out. The gun we're using is a cheap one, meant for shooting joint compound - the tip is 5/16" in diameter. We have a rotary screw compressor that's around 200 \ 215 cfm, so it's pretty strong. It cleans out with acetone and the interior of the gun is very simple, so it's easy to clean. It get the material on the surface quickly, sometimes you go back in and do some smoothing by hand, with a brush, but it also levels out nicely.Are there any health hazards when spraying Styroplast?
According to the manufacturer his would require proper PPE as laid out in the SDS. This includes but is not limited to a SAR respirator depending on ventilation and proper clothing while spraying.Product Rating
Customer Reviews
I urgently need this product in my country since my works require a coating that protects them and here in Chile there is no element that can help me with this.
Janet Gernand, 05-22-2017
I love this product! I design and build sets for school plays and it's a "must have" product to keep on hand that makes foam pieces more sturdy and longer lasting.
Rhonda Jenkins, 09-18-2015
Styroplast is great for protecting foam! I love the ease of using and how fast it dries and cures!
Tyler Wilson, 01-01-1991
EVA foam for our Cosplay props and costumes is our bread and butter right now. We've been coating it with Styroplast. I ran into one girl not to long ago that uses worbla. I pitched Styroplast to her and she complained it was too heavy. If you don't know what that is, worbla is a thermoplastic with a very low melting point. It is outrageously expensive. A two-square-foot sheet goes for about 30 bucks. That's why Styroplast is a better alternative.
Gregory Kupsky, 06-13-2018
The product worked exactly as intended. There was an issue where it was damaged in shipping but they sent me a replacement for it the next day. Very happy with the product and company!
Michael Milot, 07-10-2018
Great to do business with. Building a boat from Styrofoam and I can' t wait to coat it. I will send a photo to the folks at Hot Wire Foam Factory when it's complete.
Gregory Bruce, 10-18-2018
Styroplast is exactly what you want to give your project a smooth, hard surface finish. I've used it for years and it's my favorite finish.
Emmanuel Lewis, 03-04-2019
Unfortunately I'm not a fan of this product use for foam. I've done 3 applications that worked well for about 8 minutes. After 10 minutes the product dries fast, becomes thick & is unusable. The mixer is 3:1 part A/B . I tried mixing it with slightly different ratios. The product dries & hardens too quick. Once applied though it seems to give good protection. Hard protective gloss that still shows some details.
Erin Medina, 10-09-2020
Love this stuff. Temps were as specified. Great working time. We were very precise in the mix ratio. Did some letters and dipped them and alternatively brushed others. The dipping works great
Erin Medina, 10-09-2020
Love this stuff. Temps were as specified. Great working time. We were very precise in the mix ratio. Did some letters and dipped them and alternatively brushed others. The dipping works great
